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During the s Cuba was one of the leading gaming and tourist destinations of the world. It started in the s, when Havana assumed a role later taken by Las Vegas: a vacation spot where Americans could party in ways not allowed at home.
But it was not the gambling as much as it was the booze. America was in the midst of the disastrous experiment known as Prohibition, which also created modern organized crime.
Cuba flourished with nightclubs, bordellos and casinos. World War II was a minor interruption. Then the partying was reborn. But it looked for a while like the good times might be coming to an end.
Cuban casinos had become so crooked that Americans were beginning to stay away. They were saved when Fulgencio Batista became dictator in In an ironic twist, Batista called upon the mob, particularly Meyer Lansky, to clean things up.
And they did. It is hard to believe organized crime syndicates would run completely honest games. But Lansky realized they could make more money with magnificent hotel-casinos then if they cheated everyone.
Throughout the s, the American and Cuban mob families opened luxurious casino resorts, each one bigger and more successful than the last.
The money poured in. Batista got a cut of everything. Three recent books, Offshore Vegas: How The Mob Brought Revolution To Cuba; Havana Before Castro: When Cuba Was A Tropical Playground; and Havana Nocturne: How The Mob Owned Cuba… And Then Lost It To The Revolution may overstate the importance of organized crime in the Communists coming to power.
The economy under Batista was not that bad. Cuba had a large middle class. Lansky was, in fact, originally reluctant to open casinos, because labor unions were so strong.
Still, most Cubans never shared the wealth they saw all around them, and corruption was rampant. The result was revolution.
More importantly, so are its casinos. Although now dark and empty, nothing else has changed; even the chandeliers are the same.
You swear you hear the ghost whispering of long-gone slot machines and crap tables, when you walk around the Riviera casino. Many of the bars and nightclubs are still open.
The largest showroom of them all, the Tropicana with its multi-level, outdoor stage, sells out every night. The extravaganza features statuesque showgirls with feathered head-dresses and sexy dancing, or at least what would have been considered sexy in Before the Revolution, Havana competed with Las Vegas and Monte Carlo as the gambling and entertainment capitol of the world.
Fidel Castro, through his hand-picked pro-visional president, Manuel Urrutia, closed the casinos immediately after seizing power on January 1, , just as he canceled the national lottery.
But this threw thousands of Cubans out of work. They made their complaints public, marching through the streets in protest.
They proved to be right, but too late. Castro relented and allowed the casinos to reopen. But tourists, especially Americans, stayed away in droves.
And the economy did collapse. The Soviet bloc never could supply enough tourists to make up for being isolated from the U.
I remember seeing faded posters for Havana vacations in a tourist bureau in Prague, shortly after the Velvet Revolution. The other store windows were practically empty, since there was little to buy and few people had any money, or the right to fly over the barbed wire and minefields that had surrounded Communist Czechoslovakia.
The fall of the Iron Curtain shows what we can expect for Cuba: A combination of two of the greatest expansions of legal gaming in the last 40 years.
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